NOV. 1, 2013 -- A Charleston man’s idea of how to improve food choices and reduce food deserts in low-income areas of the Lowcountry has captured the attention of the state commissioner of agriculture, Hugh Weathers. Lindsey B. Barrow Jr., a College of Charleston graduate from Georgia, is seeking funding to upfit a bus to take healthy food to places that are a long way from a regular grocery store. These areas are often referred to as “food deserts” because affordable, healthy food is not nearby. Instead, the approximately 250,000 South Carolinians who live in these very urban or very rural areas often rely disproportionately on convenience stores filled with processed and canned food, beef jerky, soft drinks and little that is fresh.
“It’s important that we find ways to solve the lack of grocery stores, creating food deserts, around our state,” said award winning chef and author Nathalie Dupree of Charleston. “Without access to affordable shopping with a full range of choices, how can we criticize anyone’s choices?
“Many gas stations charge $2 for an old banana or apple. If you only have a dollar, why wouldn’t you get a Coca-Cola rather than leave empty-handed?”
Barrow said he figured that in rural food deserts like those found in parts of Williamsburg, Colleton, Sumter and Chesterfield counties, simple economics makes it tough for small, new stores to open. There are comparatively few people to be customers and the low profit margin of the grocery business makes investments somewhat risky.
Former state Rep. Wilbur Cave, who now is executive director of Allendale County Alive, knows the problems of opening a small store in an area where poverty runs more than 40 percent. Working with investors and the state Department of Commerce back in 2007, a low-price, small grocer opened in Allendale. Eight months later after being undercapitalized, it closed, Cave said.
Earlier this year, the only grocery store in nearby Fairfax closed. That means there’s only one grocer, an IGA, in all of Allendale County these days, which translates into the reality that a lot of people don’t have easy access to healthy food choices, Cave said. [Allendale's old Galaxy Food Center, also closed, is pictured above.]
“So many of our people, especially seniors, don’t have transportation,” he said. “So now their food costs have increased because they have to go [by taxi or with a friend] to Hampton or Barnwell -- or Allendale -- to get groceries.”
If you bus it in, will they come?
But what if , Barrow wonders, you can bring the store to the people instead of having to build a store for people to visit -- a kind of food version of the baseball movie, “Field of Dreams?”
Barrow says that since he came up with the idea of Lowcountry Street Grocery earlier this year, he’s been networking, planning and seeking grants to create a mobile farmers market that operates sustainably in urban and rural areas.
During a discussion about the paucity of immediate policy alternatives that the legislature could consider to improve nutrition choices in food deserts, you could almost hear the gears turning in Weathers’ brain when Barrow’s idea was mentioned.
“It’s a farmers market on wheels,” he concluded, adding that the idea seemed to have a lot of merit because it would take the notion of Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) one step further. In that model, local growers get local consumers to buy “shares” in produce they grow. When the produce is ripe, CSA farmers deliver it to people at their homes. One week, consumers might get tomatoes and cucumbers; another might find peas and lettuces -- whatever is in season.
On the morning after the interview, Weathers phoned after mulling Barrow’s idea all night. He particularly focused on the logistics of setting up a mobile farmers market for a food desert.
“I don’t want a task force [on this]. I don’t want a policy council,” he said. “I just want to get this young man, a couple of my staff and some farmers who are doing CSAs” together.
And after sorting through logistics, the possibilities of federal grants for a pilot program, marketing, permitting and more, something might be in the works as early as next spring for Barrow as farmers are planting crops, Weathers said.
For now, Barrow is tickled pink -- and excited with prospects beyond what he’s been working on with the Lowcountry Housing Trust for the last few months.
That organization, a key player in a statewide meeting last year about what to do about food deserts, received a $500,000 grant in 2011 to increase food access in underserved communities. Last year, it loaned $110,000 to Lowcountry Produce Market and Cafe in Beaufort to help a family expand its farmstand business. It also loaned $350,000 to Northside Development Corporation in Spartanburg to build the Hub City Farmers’ Market which, coincidentally, already has a mobile farmers market, according to Anna Hamilton of the Trust.
Policy alternatives
The S.C. Food Policy Council, which held the statewide meeting last year to discuss what to do about food deserts, made five recommendations in a 37-page report released in the spring. Among them suggestion to create public policy initiatives. While there appear to be no formal bills ready for state lawmakers to consider, Weathers and others say possible policy alternatives include:
- Better use of existing federal grant programs to help grow mobile markets and more CSA activities.
- Develop a state incentive fund to attract small grocers to food deserts in very urban and very rural parts of the state. Such a program in Pennsylvania has been successful, Hamilton said.
- Encourage more people to enter farming as a profession. Weathers said Clemson Extension and his office were already working on an Emerging Farmer Initiative to draw new farmers into the production of food.
- Develop pilot programs to test ideas, such as Barrow’s mobile farmers market.
Weathers admits that he doesn’t have all of the answers to eradicating food deserts in South Carolina, but agrees that the work that’s starting to focus on farming as an integral component to some of South Carolina’s economic woes will be helpful over the long run.
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